| Furniture Repairing
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Wood is a natural living product; therefore, wood furniture will
"breathe" in response to changes in the atmosphere. Wood is an organic
substance, and each species of wood has individual characteristics such
as color, texture, and smell. Building furniture with traditional
joinery is fairly straightforward: cut, glue, clamp, and let it dry. |
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Rapid or extreme fluctuation in temperature, humidity or direct sunlight
may cause cracking, splitting, and/or warping of the piece. We apply
appropriate finishes on each piece with those characteristics in mind,
so the finish and the design of the wood enhance one another and work
together harmoniously. In fact, by using the right materials and
techniques, you can fix many types of damage without spending a lot of
time or money. So there are some methods for you to consult when you are
in trouble. |
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There is a method to solve the furniture under the strong sunlight.
Strong sunlight can cause fading or other changes. If you leave objects
in a permanent position on the furniture, uneven fading may also occur.
Avoid placing furniture next to radiators, hot air vents, air
conditioners, or open windows. Do not place hot containers directly onto
the surface of the furniture. |
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Shellac and lacquer finishes are not resistant to water and alcohol.
Spills and condensation from glasses can leave permanent white spots or
rings on these finishes. To remove these white spots, first try
polishing the surface with liquid furniture polish; buff the surface
firmly. If this doesn't work, lightly wipe the stained surface with
denatured alcohol. Use as little alcohol as possible; too much will
damage the finish. |
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Blushing, a white haze over a large surface or an entire piece of
furniture is a common problem with old shellac and lacquer finishes. The
discoloration is caused by moisture, and it can sometimes be removed the
same way white spots are removed. Then wipe the wood clean with a soft
cloth, apply two coats of hard furniture wax, and buff the surface to a
shine. Blushing can sometimes be removed by reamalgamation. If the
surface is crazed or alligator, reamalgamation should be used instead of
steel-wool rubbing. Work with the grain of the wood, rubbing evenly on
the entire surface, until the white haze disappears. If neither rubbing
nor reamalgamation removes the haze, the piece of furniture must be
refinished. |
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Careless handling of the furniture may also cause damage. Use dry cloth,
soft brush or the brush of a vacuum cleaner to remove dust on the
furniture. If needed, use a dry or mild damp cloth to wipe away dirt or
stains. This is the only cleaning you need for the furniture. Never use
too much water to clean the furniture. |
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There is a solution to the polishing. Once scratches and nicks are
adequately concealed, surfaces should be |
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regularly polished to maintain shine and beauty. Mix two tablespoons
ammonia in a quart of warm water to clean painted surfaces and
countertops. Two tablespoons of vinegar in a quart of warm water works |
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well for a variety of sealed and painted surfaces as well. Polished
surfaces in need of mild abrasive cleansing can be cleaned with a |
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solution of baking soda and water. Clean off dry residue with a damp
cloth |
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Wax and gum usually come off easily, but they must be removed carefully
to prevent damage to the finish. To make the wax or gum brittle, press
it with a packet of ice wrapped in a towel or paper towel. Let the
deposit harden; then lift it off with your thumbnail. The hardened wax
or gum should pop off the surface with very little pressure. If
necessary, repeat the ice application. Do not scrape the deposit off, or
you'll scratch the finish. |
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The choice of glue that you use to re-assemble the pieces is up to you,
but most restorers and conservators agree that hide glue is the
best choice for antiques because of its reversibility. On some exposed
replacement parts like pins, tails, or round tenons, the new wood can be
toned to match the surrounding finish by mixing some dry pigments with
shellac or lacquer and toning the replacement part to blend in. |
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Working the color in thin layers to build up to the original color works
better than trying to hit the color all in one shot. When the color is
right, apply a clear topcoat to protect the touched-up area.  The
ideal condition for furniture is a stable atmosphere with relative
humidity fluctuations of 40 - 70 percent, and a temperature from 60 - 80
degrees Fahrenheit. Operating a humidifier or putting a glass of water
inside or underneath the furniture may help to maintain humidity. |
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05/06/08 |
